trust me, i loved the feeling of actually being able to stand up on the board and riding my baby waves :) i would definitely want to learn how to surf well! but sadly, on the island i live on the nearest surf town is about a 3 hour drive, and the road is majorly twisty :( oh and the water's super super cold.. like actually a couple years ago the had the O'neill Cold Water Classic there! mmm nice and chilly. you have to wear a full wet suit there, unlike hawaii. and although i've never surfed there i've heard that they have some great sports. so maybe one day?
and especially since i want to move to califronia so badly i would love to learn to surf. growing up on the beach all my life, it definitely feels like it's something i'm missing out on! i just love the ocean so much and i'd really like to fully embrace it in all ways, plus i'm totally an adrenaline junkie.. so that kinda helps out there.
lots of love
M
No comments:
Post a Comment